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Mirepoix and Limoux.

There are several lovely mediaeval towns and villages around Castelnaudary and a comfortable day trip takes you to two of the best ones – one big and one small. It also offers opportunities to buy wine direct from the local producers of Blanquette de Limoux. This wine is an alternative to Champagne, made in the proper manner, but at a much lower price. In Britain it is one of the best kept secrets of our region.
From our house leave Castelnaudary on the D6 and go out past the motorway junction. Mirepoix is signposted and is a quiet but lovely drive over open hills into a mixed countryside of woods and farmland. Drop down to the main road, turn right and head into Mirepoix.The journey takes little more than half an hour.

The town centre in Mirepoix

The town centre in Mirepoix

There is parking all around the old town and it is free. If you can find a spot you may even park in the very heart of the mediaeval town. If not, walk through the town gates and into the old square. 

Gargoyles in Mirepoix

Gargoyles in Mirepoix

The square has a cast iron 19th century marketplace in the middle. the market is held on a Thursday. The cloisters around the edge of the square date from the middle ages. Look out for the gargoyles carved into the beams at first floor level on the building housing the hotel. The church, to the side of the square is also rather fine. Inside there are a series of models showing the development of the church over the ages.
Mirepoix is quite touristy, but not in a loud sort of way. It has plenty of bars and restaurants around the square where you can sit outside in the sun, take a drink or something to eat, and watch the world go by. If the urge is to shop, then there are several interesting shops including a gem and stone shop that is worth a look. 

Apple sculptures in Mirepoix

Apple sculptures in Mirepoix

In October there is the annual apple festival. Apples are the main crop here and like all of France, they celebrate their local produce. In the square are sculptures made of apples by the local growers. The smell is lovely and you can buy a bewildering array of apples from the market in the town square.

 

Decorated bicycle in Mirepoix for the apple festival

Decorated bicycle in Mirepoix for the apple festival

 
After a stop in Mirepoix and maybe lunch, get back to the car and follow the “toutes directions” signs until you see the signs for Limoux. It is about 30 kms and runs up and over some hills that are quite high and give wonderful panoramas towards the Pyrenees. As you drop down towards Limoux the vines take over and as you come into the town you pass several wine outlets where you can buy the blanquette de Limoux direct from the producers. The French people like the sweeter varieties – doux, demi-sec and sec. they drink these as an aperitif or with fois gras, but you can also buy the drier versions – brut. At a price of €10 -12 this is a fair saving on champagne.
The centre of Limoux is again a square with cloistered buildings surrounding it. The town is bigger and more sophisticated than Mirepoix with a good array of shops. The river Aude runs to one side of the town on its way from the Pyrenees to Carcassonne and thence the Mediterranean.
To get back to Castelnaudary leave Limoux on the Carcassonne road and on the outskirts bear left. the road is well signposted to Castelnaudary. This road takes you through more wine country. The Cote de Malapere makes red, white and rose wine, and on the road back to Castelnaudary you pass producers of Limoux and still wines.
Cote de Malapere

Cote de Malapere

If time allows you can explore 2 more hilltop villages with stunning views that are only a slight deviation from the main road. These are Montreal which you will see off to the right and Fanjeaux, off to the left.
All in all we think that it is a most interesting day with lots of different scenery and several shopping opportunities.